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布达佩斯格雷舍姆宫四季酒店

Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest

www.fourseasons.com/budapest/

一座城市保留的时代瑰宝


当门童推开布达佩斯格雷舍姆宫四季酒店厚重的雕花铁门,我心里发出的惊叹瞬间产生。花瓣状的玻璃顶棚带着东方的雅致一下子沁入心脾,自然光线于是很均匀地细细铺开在富足的大堂空间,并带着极浅极淡的蓝,照料到每一处角落。一串鲜艳宛如云彩的吹制玻璃吊灯,像一只汲取了自然精华而修炼成正果正向天空飞窜的貂,看得让人痴痴地想这究竟是何方来物。


这座20世纪初由格雷舍姆保险公司投资建设的同名宫殿酒店被视为匈牙利新艺术主义(Art Nouveau)的珍珠,上个世纪初的大多细节皆能得到完整的保留。大堂的地板是手工铺砌的细密马赛克,泛着像上好油纸一样的光亮,顺着逆光可看出手工细活不完美的凹凸起伏,但这又恰体现了它的上等身份。环形的线条组合可以想象成一枚旋转的风车,或者干脆是一只张牙舞爪的章鱼。另外一部分大理石地板,居然有着同样是手工摹刻出来的心形,像是防伪的水印,需要仔细去找才行,所以当你看到紧盯着地面痴痴地寻找什么的年轻男女,不用觉得太意外。


秋日的阳光友好而小心地探入这座宫殿,投射到白墙上的是我穿过的那扇铁门的影子,带着中国皮影的血统。1910年代达到顶峰的欧洲新艺术主义运动的特点在这家酒店一览无余,那些有着生动曲线的花卉和植物,昆虫鸟兽,带着精雕细琢的工艺和东方艺术的审美特点。上电梯那一刻一定记得至少停留几秒,那个方形的类似钟表的楼层显示器简直就是一件让人叫绝的古玩。


狭长的走廊铺着褐色的树枝造型地毯,和天花板上的白色花饰相呼应。窗外的天井中可以看到一个圆形的玻璃穹顶,由铁制结构分成大小不同的方形,四周是朴素的白墙和银色的铁栏杆。于是玻璃穹顶似乎就是一枚轻轻放入首饰盒的戒指,几乎可以用小巧来形容。


一间上好酒店的客房自然要有上好的视野。进了客房,我迫不及待地拉开厚实的窗帘,视线傍着夕阳的落日穿过横跨多瑙河的链子桥,到达旷达雄伟的布达山坡上那长达1.5公里的城堡。布达佩斯由两座原本独立的城市组成,布达是文化中心,佩斯是经济中心,这点和巴黎左右两岸的名声相似。1987年联合国教科文组织授予布达佩斯整座城市世界文化遗产的称号,全球仅有,所以,我要重复大多导游书上的那句话,一定要预定格雷舍姆宫四季酒店对着多瑙河的客房,并且告诉酒店说你优先考虑的是在链子河中间线的位置。


再乘上电梯前往酒店顶楼的SPA, 那里的无边际泳池像一面镜子,将倾斜的屋顶结构完全吸纳进去。落地的玻璃窗边摆放了三组绿植景观,没有其他任何多于的装饰。


然后,踩着松软的地毯,从顶楼沿着铜制雕花铁栏杆拾阶而下。所有的栏杆都由金属制作成嬉戏的鸟雀在花枝中的图案,与中国传统门厅的雕饰异曲同工。金属打制却一点不显得沓重,有如剪纸般轻盈;而金色的扶手部位,显得更为贵气。每一楼层都有着可以和经费十足的大教堂媲美的彩绘玻璃,色彩和细节都极为讲究,每个主题都不同。下到底楼之刻,记得往天棚处看,彩绘玻璃带着蓝色的光线,让人叹为观止,整个行程就像在穿越一个艺术走廊。


在布达佩斯格雷舍姆宫四季酒店KOLLÁZS餐厅的晚餐时光无疑是最美的。即便在一个窗外吹着阵阵冷风的秋季,选择坐在室外用餐的人们也络绎不绝。找一处靠着整面落地玻璃墙边的座位,将这间荣获2016年欧洲酒店设计大奖的餐厅一览无余,要一杯滚热的绿茶,看窗前人来人往,看链子桥的夜景灯光越来越亮,这一天在这美好的夜晚结束了。


A Treasure of the Era in Budapest


When the doorman pushed open the thick carved iron gate of the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest, my heart voiced an exclamation. The petalshaped glass ceiling shone with the elegance of the East, and the natural light evenly spread out in the rich lobby space, with a very light blue appearing in every corner. A bunch of brightly colored glass chandeliers hung like a marten that has taken the essence of nature, ready to fly into the sky, leaving much wonder behind.


The Gresham palace, invested by Gresham Life Assurance in the early 20th century, is considered the pearl of Art Nouveau in Hungary, and most of the details from the last century are fully preserved. The floor of the lobby is handpaved with fine mosaics that shines like a good oil paper. The backlit light shows 

the unevenness of the handmade imperfections, but it reflects its superior identity. The combination of a circular line can be imagined as a rotating windmill, or simply an octopus with claws. The other part of the marble floor actually has a heart shape that is also handengraved. It is like an anticounterfeiting watermark, which you need to look carefully to see, so when you see young men and women looking at the ground searching for something, don‘t be surprised.


The friendly autumn sun was also exploring the palace carefully. The shadow cast on the white wall was the shadow of the iron gate I passed through, carrying the bloodline of the Chinese shadow puppet show. The characteristics of the European Art Nouveau movement that reached its peak in the 1910s are shown in full at this hotel, with vivid curves of flowers and plants, insects and beasts, with the craftsmanship and aesthetics of oriental art . When you get on the elevator, you must remember to stay at least for a few seconds. The square clocklike floor display is simply an amazing antique.


The narrow corridor is lined with brown treeshaped carpets that echo the white floral decorations on the ceiling. A circular glass dome can be seen in the courtyard outside the window. The iron structure is divided into squares of different sizes, surrounded by plain white walls and silver iron railings. So the glass dome seems to be like a ring that is gently placed in a small and neat jewelry box.


A good hotel room naturally requires a good view. Once inside the room, I can‘t wait to open the thick curtains to 

look at the setting sun through the chain bridge across the Danube river, reaching the 1.5kilometer long castle on the majestic Buda hillside. Budapest is made up of two originally independent cities. Buda is the cultural center and Pest is the economic center. This is similar to the reputation of the left and right banks of Paris. In 1987, UNESCO awarded the title of the world cultural heritage to the whole Budapest city, the only one in the world. Therefore, I have to repeat the words on most guide books, that you must book the Gresham Palace Hotel‘s room facing the Danube river and tell the hotel that your priority location is in the midline of the chain bridge.


Take the elevator to the spa on the top floor of the hotel. The infinity pool is like a mirror, and the sloping roof structure is completely absorbed. There are three sets of green plants on the side of the floortoceiling windows, without any redundant decoration.


Then, step on the soft carpet and step down from the top floor along the copper carved iron railings. All the railings are made of metal carved in the pattern of the playful birds in the flower branches, which is similar to the carvings of the traditional Chinese foyer. The metal doesn‘t seem heavy at all, but as light as papercutting; the golden armrests seem expensive. Each floor has stained glass that is comparable to the costly cathedral. The colours and details are exquisite and each theme is different. When you go down to the bottom of the building, remember to look at the ceiling, the stained glass with blue light is most amazing. The whole journey is like crossing an art corridor.


The dinner time at the KOLLÁZS restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest is undoubtedly the most beautiful event. Even in autumn with cold wind blowing outside the window, many people still choose to sit outside for a meal. Find a seat against the side of the floortoceiling glass wall, and enjoy the restaurant that won the 2016 European Hotel Design Award. Have a hot cup of green tea and watch people come and go. As the night falls, the lights of the chain bridge get brighter, and the day ends with a wonderful night. 

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