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摩洛哥菲斯古城蓝房子旅馆

La Maison Bleue Fez in Morocco

www.maisonbleue.com/

菲斯古城蓝房子旅馆:美轮美奂  世外桃源


旅馆名为“蓝房子”源于地板和墙面瓷砖上的蓝色,简单朴素,这种蓝色的原料就产自菲斯。旅馆依然保持着建成时的样子,没有刻意的设计。旅馆门脸很窄,所谓前台不过是一张不大的桌子。至此,客人多少会有些失望,但服务员会主动自信地问你要不要先进去看看房间。


当推开吱吱呀呀作响的两扇不很宽的老木门之时,客人眼睛无不一亮。这是个十米左右见方的天井,有三层楼高,阳光从顶上照下来,很明亮。四壁简直就是艺术品,正面和两侧墙上三个穆斯林标志性的圆拱形门洞,中间大两边小,背面墙是一个大门洞,地面以及四面墙从地面往上一米多高的部分,是摩洛哥传统的手工雕刻瓷砖拼接而成的简单图案,但正面墙平视过去门洞后的那面墙拼接的几何图案很复杂,很精细,颜色搭配很得当,错落但不绕眼。当地人将这种工艺叫做Jellige,是摩洛哥传统工艺之一。四面门洞周围和上面两层窗户周围是最让人叹为观止的精美得让人不忍呼吸的石膏浮雕,这是摩洛哥人的另一个绝活。桌上的黄铜烛台和地上的黄铜装饰器皿上,也是手工凿刻而成,想必更加费时费力。


沿着只能容得下一人的又窄又陡的楼道来到楼上的房间,最引人注目的是三面垂着白色纱帐的古旧木床,给人朦朦胧胧的感觉。木头雕琢后漆得很暗,与白色的手织纱形成强烈对比。屋里的柜子和摆件都是上了年头的老物件,窗户的圆拱部分是半圆形的一块玻璃,拼成了五颜六色的图案,给颜色略显单调的四壁增添了几分色彩,像教堂里的花窗玻璃,但只是几何图案,没有任何人物动物植物,这跟伊斯兰教不拜人不拜物的教旨有关。地面和墙面的风格和楼下的天井一致,都是雕刻的瓷砖。墙上挂了些颇具古老风情的油画,或是手工瓷器盘子。房间墙角和楼下餐厅的沙发上一律罩上厚实的绒布,主人说它们是几十年前从英国买来的。所有客房都保留着从前的布局,没有两间是一模一样的。


旅馆的餐厅就在天井三面墙的门洞后,很昏暗,主要依靠桌上的蜡烛照明。烛台很高,是经手工雕琢的铜器。墙上的挂件不同于房间,是古老的织物。桌布和餐布非常别致,点缀着当地的手工刺绣,还有意绣上客人的名字,极其感人。当地产丝绸,但不是蚕吐出的丝线,而是从芦荟中提取出来的,听来觉得不可思议,当地人会跟客人特意说明他们的丝绸是从植物来,而非动物。


晚餐结束了,客人陆续回房间睡觉了。主人似乎还意犹未尽,慢悠悠走来走去,跟尚未离席的客人打声招呼,你若健谈,他便坐到你旁边,要两杯摩洛哥茶,与你一人一杯,谈风土谈人情谈历史。此时的你,便也远离了现代城市的喧嚣躁动,与功利,与他一起步入了那个为国人所不知的遥远但却辉煌的年代。



La Maison Bleue Fez: An Exquisite Heaven On Earth


The hotel name ”Blue House” originates from the blue color of the floor and wall tiles in the hotel. The raw material of this simple and plain blue color is produced in Fez. The hotel still retains its original look, without deliberate designs. The hotel’s façade is very narrow and the front desk is just a small table. At this point, guests might be somewhat disappointed, but the waiter will take the initiative to show you around the house with confidence.


After pushing open the two creaking and not very wide old wooden doors, guests will be all truly surprised. This is a 10squaremeter and threestorey high courtyard, with the sun shining from top down and making it all bright. The surrounding walls are simply a work of art. The walls in the front and on both sides have three arched doorway openings with iconic Muslim symbols, and the openings are big in the middle and small on both sides. On the back of the wall is a huge doorway space, and from the ground up the wall about a meter high are covered with simple patterns decorated with traditional Moroccan hand carved ceramic tile mosaics, but the geometric mosaic on the wall past the doorway is the most complex and delicate, with appropriate color collocation, scattered but pleasant to the eye. Local people call this art form Jellige, which is one of the traditional crafts in Morocco. The most eyecatching features are the plaster decorations around the fourwall doorways and the windows two layers up, which is another unique skill in Morocco. The brass candlesticks on the table and the brass decorative utensils on the floor are also hand carved, which presumably consumed more time.


Along the narrow and steep stairway that only accommodates one person, I went upstairs to my room. The most striking feature was the antique wooden bed with hanging white veils on three sides. The carved wood was lacquered in dark colors, in stark contrast to the white hand knitted yarn. The cupboard and decorations in the house were all old objects. The round arched window was a semicircular piece of glass with colorful mosaics, adding color to the monotonous walls, like the floral glass window in the church, but it only had geometric patterns instead of figures, animals or plants, which is closely related to the nonidolatry principle of the Islamic tradition. The style of the ground and the wall was the same as the courtyard below, all made of carved ceramic tiles. On the wall hung some ancient style paintings, or handmade porcelain plates. The sofas in the room corner and in the restaurant downstairs were all covered with thick flannel, which had been bought decades ago from Britain according to the master. All rooms kept their original layouts, and no two rooms are exactly the same.


The hotel restaurant is behind the doorway of the three walls in the courtyard, which is very dim and mainly lit by the candles on the table. The candlesticks are tall and hand carved in bronze. The hangings on the wall are made with olden fabric, which is different from the room. The tablecloth and the dining cloth are special items, interspersed with local handmade embroideries with the names of the guests on it. Silk is is not produced by silkworms here, but extracted from aloe. Locals will tell the guests that their silk is extracted from the plant, rather than animals.


When the dinner is over and the guests start to leave, the master would stick around and slowly walk up and down, exchanging greetings with the guests. If you feel like talking, he will sit down next to you with two cups of Moroccan tea, and tell you about local customs and history. At this time, far away from the hustle and bustle of the restless and moneychasing cities, you are ready to step into a distant yet brilliant era with him.

商务合作:

咨询电话:010-64706107
邮箱:info@hotelelitemag.com

Business cooperation:

Tel:010-64706107
Email:info@hotelelitemag.com

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